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If you have time on your visit to the Czech Republic for only one excursion, seriously consider making it Ceský Krumlov. One of Bohemia's prettiest towns, Krumlov is a living gallery of elegant Renaissance-era buildings housing charming cafes, pubs, restaurants, shops, and galleries. In 1992, UNESCO named Ceský Krumlov a World Heritage Site for its historical importance and physical beauty.
Bustling since medieval times, the town, after centuries of embellishment, is exquisitely beautiful. In 1302, the Rozmberk family inherited the castle and moved in, using it as their main residence for nearly 300 years. You'll feel that time has stopped as you look from the Lazebnický Bridge and see the waters of the Vltava below snaking past the castle's gray stone. At night, by the castle lights, the view becomes even more dramatic.
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Typical gifts from the Czech Republic are wooden toys - these will be found in abundance in the many gift shops in Cesky Krumlov. You will also find in these shops various examples of Czech ceramics, traditional gingerbread moulded in to all sorts of figures from little devils to chickens, and painted blown Easter eggs.
One of the town's most celebrated restaurants, this place specializes in freshwater fish from surrounding lakes. Trout, perch, pike, and eel are sautéed, grilled, baked, and fried in a variety of herbs and spices. Venison, rabbit, and other game are also available, along with the requisite roast beef and pork cutlet dinners.
In the shadow of the castle and, as the name implies, on an island, this restaurant is best on a sunny day when the terrace overflows with flowers, hearty Czech food (including plenty of chicken and fish), and lots of beer. The staff are very friendly, which helps with your patience since usually only two waiters work each shift, making service on the slow side. A great place to relax and enjoy the view.
This newly restored millhouse, with history dating back to the 16th century, is a restaurant, antiques shop, and exhibition all in one. Large wooden tables and benches are part of the thematic restaurant on the ground floor, where a traditional Czech menu is served. The terrace on the bank of the Vltava River above the water channel here is a terrific place to sit in the summer.
Reputedly the second-largest castle in Bohemia (after Prague Castle), Ceský Krumlov Château was constructed in the 13th century as part of a private estate. Throughout the ages, it has been passed on to a variety of private owners, including the Rozmberk family, Bohemia's largest landholders, and the Schwarzenbergs, the Bohemian equivalent of the Hilton family.
Perched high atop a rocky hill, the château is open only from April to October, exclusively by guided tours.
Tip: A Crowd Alert
Consider yourself warned: Word has spread about Ceský Krumlov. Late spring to early autumn can be unbearable as thousands of visitors blanket its medieval streets. If possible, try to visit in the off season, when the crowds recede, the prices decrease, and the town's charm can really shine. Who knows, you may even hear some Czech!